My Favourite Yves Saint Laurent Collections
Lately, I’ve been deeply inspired by designer fashion runway collections. One brand that resonates most with my personal style is Yves Saint Laurent. Under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent consistently delivers collections that embody timeless elegance, refined sophistication, and bold, boundary-pushing designs. Vaccarello masterfully balances classic silhouettes with modern edge, making the brand a constant source of style inspiration for me.
Let’s take a look and analyse my favourite collections.
Pre-Fall 2024
Despite the passing of Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello has masterfully captured the essence and original spirit—raison d'être—of the fashion house. He brings a distinctly modern and chic sensibility to his work, often infused with a subtly erotic edge. Vaccarello has tapped into the delicate intricacy that defined Saint Laurent’s earlier eras, drawing inspiration from the house’s historic use of lace, lingerie, and the fluid, languid silhouettes evocative of the 1920s and 1930s. To reinterpret these elements for a contemporary audience in 2024, he thoughtfully plays with contrasts: combining weighty fabrics with sheer, gossamer materials; layering structured pieces over soft, flowing ones; and juxtaposing transparency with strength. This nuanced approach allows Saint Laurent’s legacy to evolve while staying rooted in its iconic aesthetic.
Vaccarello’s Pre-Fall collection showcases a striking array of outerwear, featuring weathered leather coats, blousons, and belted utility jackets—all imbued with a sense of effortless edge. These pieces are elevated with bold design details such as strong, structured shoulders, biker-inspired snaps, and exposed zippers, adding both attitude and sophistication. The design and styling of the outerwear stand out as a true highlight of the collection, offering a perfect blend of functionality and high fashion.
Hints of the upcoming winter season were subtly woven throughout this Fall collection, most notably through 80s-inspired styling that paired gauzy, draped bodysuits with sleek pencil skirts. Faux fur textures added a seasonal touch, appearing in wraps and chic chain-strap bags. In a nod to the house’s sensual heritage, Vaccarello highlighted the lingerie-inspired elements by incorporating richly detailed black lace hosiery into nearly every look. This styling choice was a quintessentially Parisian move—both playfully seductive and unmistakably sophisticated, blending flirtation with fashion in true tongue-in-chic style.
Vaccarello masterfully conveyed a sense of fragility throughout the collection, but one that is subtly reinforced with strength. These garments are designed to move with the body; they stretch, flow, and remain unrestrictive, marrying comfort with elegance. When styled with sheer cardigans, tapered leather trousers, and standout outerwear pieces, the looks take on a grounded sophistication. Paired with low-heeled slingbacks, the ensembles strike a balance between high fashion and everyday wearability, proving that Vaccarello’s vision isn’t just about spectacle, but about creating clothes that function beautifully in the real world.
Here are my favourite looks.
Look 52/79
I love the monochromatic black keeps the look refined and timeless. Black lace in particular evokes a mood that is both romantic and rebellious—a nod to the 1920s-30s Parisian boudoir aesthetic, reimagined for a contemporary audience.
Look 56/79
This look exemplifies sensual armor—it’s alluring yet powerful, delicate yet commanding. Vaccarello often plays with these dualities, especially through lace and transparency, which he uses not to expose vulnerability, but to amplify strength and control. The high neckline and long sleeves make the sheer fabric feel intentional rather than provocative for the sake of provocation.
Look 54/79
This design captures the essence of Saint Laurent’s heritage—bold sensuality, precision tailoring, and femme-fatale energy—while projecting it through a contemporary, structured, and almost sculptural vision. It’s pure elegance with an edge, designed for a woman who commands space effortlessly.
Resort 2024
It’s evident that with this collection, Anthony Vaccarello is not only honouring the legacy of Saint Laurent but also thoughtfully building upon his own design journey within the house. Several standout pieces from the resort collection echo signatures from his earlier Saint Laurent shows, while also nodding to aesthetics from his pre-YSL namesake label. The silhouettes lean into his hallmark style—sleek, body-conscious, and subtly provocative—with a strong emphasis on ’90s minimalism. Created with materials like stretch jersey, supple leather, and fluid satin, these designs convey a message that true glamour doesn’t have to be complicated—it can be luminous, sensual, and completely effortless.
The collection featured an array of beautifully draped, short cocktail dresses—playfully rendered in vibrant florals and classic polka dots. These pieces exuded a sense of ease and spontaneity, capturing a youthful, spirited attitude. It’s clear that Vaccarello views his work as an evolving narrative, with each collection building upon the last, refining and expanding his vision for the modern Saint Laurent woman.
Here are my favourite looks.
Look 25/53
I love the deep V-neck, long-sleeve bodysuit that frames the body with precision, offering a sharp contrast between sensuality and minimalism. The clean neckline and long sleeves evoke 90s-era sophistication, reinterpreted through a contemporary, confident lens.
Look 50/53
Obsessed with the feature, expertly draped and twisted fabric that forms a cut-out midsection. The construction highlights the model’s form without being overtly revealing — there’s a subtle sophistication in how the skin is shown.
This is very reminiscent of 90s minimalist glamour — think Narciso Rodriguez or vintage Donna Karan. It’s all about clean sensuality and architectural draping.
Look 1/53
I’m obsessed with the waxed cotton trench-style jacket, belted at the waist. The fabric's slight sheen gives it a luxe edge without overpowering. Structured shoulders and a fitted waist create a commanding silhouette, blending masculine tailoring with feminine poise.
Pre-Fall 2022
The collection featured a dynamic mix of modern, compact jerseys and fluid silks, designed for ease of movement and a sense of freedom. This fall offering not only continues that narrative but also lays the groundwork for the upcoming winter collection.
Oversized faux fur coats bring a cozy yet effortlessly chic vibe. Statement-making cocoon coats with voluminous shoulders and sleek leather trenches add structure and edge, casually layered over fluid, slinky slip dresses. These dresses, crafted from satin or silk, whisper of romanticism with delicate guipure lace or frothy trims at the hem and neckline. The look is grounded with stretch velvet high-heeled boots for a touch of drama, or elevated with square-toed pumps adorned with subtle gilt detailing for a luxe finish.
Look 42/90
Love the chocolate brown knit midi dress/cardigan with a luxurious fur collar. The wide belt cinches the waist, adding structure and a vintage silhouette. Leather gloves, structured heels with a gold embellishment, and narrow rectangular sunglasses add a tough, almost espionage-like feel — very “lady boss”.
Look 80/90
The oversized floral brooch adds drama and texture, giving a couture-like contrast to an otherwise classic coat. Gloves maintain a polished, almost noir aesthetic. It’s giving very Old Hollywood meets modern cool — there’s a severity and elegance that’s balanced by the soft femininity of the flower.
Look 29/90
I’m in love with the strapless and body-hugging dress, the dress follows the natural lines of the body without being overly tight—it's seductive in an understated way. The gathered cut-outs across the midriff add tension and movement to the design, revealing skin with restraint and artistic intent.
Please let me know your thoughts on each collection!
Thank you so much for reading.
Warmest Regards,
Grace - @__cosmogirls xoxo